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Installing a Works Performance rear shock.

  Author: VentureProf
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Installing a Works Performance Rear Shock.

Here’s how to change the shock from the right side. In this case, I installed an aftermarket shock from Works Performance.

Put the bike on a jack, with the rear tire just barely off the ground. Secure it to the jack. Remove the right side cover (shown here removed), passenger board (I used a ball-end Allen wrench) and backing plate (secured with one button-head socket bolt as seen in the picture and a spade/grommet friction connector ala the side cover).

There's the top shock bolt, seen from the right side. You can't get straight on the nut, but a wobble-type extension bar works well. But first, remove the air filler hose from the frame.

Pop off the rubber grommet surrounding the valve stem, and use a socket to remove the large packing nut surrounding the valve stem body.

Remove the top nut on the shock bolt using a socket and 'wobble' type extension bar to negotiate the slight angle to the nut (don't worry about holding the bolt head on the other side - the bolt head is 'captured' to the frame - you'll see how in an upcoming picture). Tap the bolt through to the left side. You'll have to load the suspension just slightly to get the pressure off the bolt. I had the rear wheel just a fraction off the concrete so I could push down lightly on the frame (I think I pushed on the bag rails - make sure you have the bike secured to the jack!!) while tapping/wiggling the bolt through. You'll use this trick again for installing the new shock and lubing the transfer linkages.

And there's the bolt as it works through to the left side. This is viewed with the left saddle bag off - no need to remove the left passenger board and backing plate if you don't want to. Look closely again at the frame where the bolt-head rested. See the two 'ears' welded to the frame meant to capture the bolt head? When you reinstall the bolt make sure you orient the bolt head so it rests between those ears before cinching the nut on the other side.

Repeat for the bottom shock bolt (you'll need to hold the bolt head while you remove the nut - no captured bolt here), and then lower the shock out.

It is straightforward now to remove the three remaining bolts for the transfer linkages (you can see the two links in these pictures) and the 'relay arm' (look at the bottom link connection and the bottom shock bolt - they connect to the 'relay arm'). The bottom shock bolt is connect to the rearmost hole of the relay arm, and the bottom of each link bolts to the center hole on the relay arm - the final hole on the relay arm bolts to the frame.

Here's a picture of the bolt removed from the bottom link connection (the piece of wood is holding my center stand out of the way), with the links swung down out of the way. You can see a bushing inserted into a bearing, described next.

[Important Note: The '99 RSV (like mine) used hefty nuts at all of these connections, but it appears that later models used a thinner nut that seem to distort easier. There are reports from members changing their links to the shorter ones about distorted nuts that the trashed threads on the bolts as the nuts were loosened. Proceed carefully.]

All three holes on the relay arm have bearings pressed inside, into which a bushing slips (and the bolt goes through the bushing - so the bolt/bushing rotates against the inside bearing surface). The top of each link mounts in a similar fashion. Slip out the bushing (use your finger to push it out),

and lube the bearing that remains on the bike by wiping/pressing wheel bearing grease (or similar) into the bearing using your little finger. A little grease (white lithium or wheel bearing) on the bolt surface is a good idea.

Slip the bushings in and reinstall the links, slip in the shock (push down/wiggle the frame to get things aligning), torque (bottom shock bolt and relay arm/transfer link bolts = 36 ft/lb; top shock bolt = 42.7 ft/lb). Here's the shock in place, with views of the top and bottom bolts.

Remember to check the static sag (preload adjustment) as per the instructions. With the rear wheel in the air, measure the distance from somewhere on the hub or axle to a point on the frame or fender directly above it. Take the same measure with the bike back on the floor, with the rider(s) seated and bike vertical, off the stand. Subtract the loaded from the unloaded distance, this is your 'sag' measure. The rear wheel travel is 105 mm (about 4 inches), so the 'sag' should be 1/4 to 1/3 of 105 mm (1 to 1 1/3 inches). This is easier to measure if you remove a saddle bag.

As you can see, there's room to adjust the preload from the right side (see the notched aluminum collar?), using the cute spanner that Works sends with the shock.

Kelly
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99 RSV

Last update: 11:14 PM Tuesday, June 6, 2006

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