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| Replacing Rear Brake Pads |
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Author: Gary L Mace (Venturous) Views: 16048 Votes: 12 |
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The rear brake pads should be inspected periodically and replaced when they reach their wear limit which is 0.5mm (0.019 in.). The mileage at which you need to change your pads will vary due to driving habits and the type of pads used on the last replacement. For example, my stock pads didn't need changed until around 19,000 miles on my bike, yet I know some folks whose stock pads needed replaced around 10,000 miles. First, remove the right saddlebag (opposite kickstand) as shown here: http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/index.php?action=article&cat_id=002004&id=269 Remove the black plastic pad cover. It just snaps on and off:
Next, remove the clip from each retaining pin. You may have to rotate the pin to see these pins. Be careful you do not loose the clips.
Next, pull the retaining pins out. Althought they appear to have a hexx bolt head on them, but they simply pull out.
Lift out the copper colored pad spring. Inspect this for heavy wear. If it shows heavy wear, it is recommended that this be replaced as well. Now, lift the brake pads out from the calipers:
Next, clean all dirt and grime away from the rear master cylinder. Remove the screw holding the cover on. Next carefully unscrew the lid and remove the diaphragm. Remember, brake fluid can be corrisive to coated surfaces like your paint.
Press the pistons back into the caliper. (see discussion below) Repeat for the other side of the rotor. Constantly check the master cylinder fluid level. As you depress the pistons, the fluid level will rise. If needed, remove some brake fluid. DO NOT DEPRESS THE BRAKE PEDAL WHILE THE MASTER CYLINDER LID IS OFF. Once both pistons have been depresses, resealed the master cylinder with the diaphragm and lid. Now install the new brake pads.
Replace the retaining pins, pad spring, and retaining pin clips. The pad spring has a faint arrow on it. It should face the front of the bike as shown below.
When finished, you should have something that looks like:
Finally, replace the black plastic pad cover. Pump the brake pedal until the new pads are seated against the rotor disk. Check the brake fluid level and re-install the rear brake master cylinder cover. It is recommended that after installing new brakes pads to use light pressure initially. Immediate hard braking can cause glazing and reduce the brake pad effectiveness.
One error in the instructions in the Tech Library (same error that is in instructions in Clymer's manual) is that you can not press the caliper toward the rotor. The caliper is solid mounted with internal pistons. You have to remove the two caliper mounting bolts if you want to press the caliper toward the rotor. What I did was remove the two caliper mounting bolts and moved it away from the rotor. Then I placed the old pad on the pistons and use a small C-clamp to press them back into the caliper. One important detail that is also left out, is to take a clean rag and remove all the dirt from the pistons before you push them back into the caliper. It only takes a minute or two, but will save you in the end, by preventing sticky caliper action down the road. Bob W.
Bob, That is correct. I used the Clymers manual to guide me through this process. However, as you noted, pushing the caliper in does not work on the rear. Your method sounds best, however, the two times I changed my rear pads, I simply gently pushed the pistons in by placing a screw driver between the rotor and piston. The way you suggest sounds less likely to slip and cause damage. Thanks! Gary Pressing the caliper pistons back into the calipers the correct way. Remove the caliper from the rotor and remove the pads. Use a some brake and parts cleaner and a brush and clean the area around the caliper pistons. Install a tight fitting tube on the bleeder and open it 1 turn. Then you should be able to press each caliper piston back in place by hand. At least I can I have strong hands. My point is the pistons should press back into the calipers fairly easy. If not then it maybe rebuild time. Note: on multi piston calipers besure to hold the other pistons in place so while pressing one back into the caliper you don't press the other one or ones out of the caliper. RickH
Last update: 08:46 AM Sunday, July 30, 2006 |
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