Side plastic, mufflers and front headers off.

It's easier to remove the parts with the bike on the center

stand until you get to the rear header clamps. Put it on the

side stand, use a mirror and drop light on the floor and look

up between the frame tube and slightly forward. About the angle

of the arrow you see above. The right side is easier to fine

than the left so start with that one first.

The chamber is on it's back and this is 2 steps into the

opening process. I used a cutoff tool to

cut it open. WARNING... USE safety glasses and

leather gloves when using the cutter.

The above photo shows the left

baffle liner screen already cut out and you can see the

down pipe from the rear header connections.

Bend it open ONLY as far as you

need to gain access to the baffle. I needed it 90 degrees

open to get the cutoff tool in. If your baffle is flopping fairly

freely (very common), open a little and grab with vice grips,

twist and pull hard.

Here both screens are cut out.

My baffle had it's welds in place but was stress fractured

along the bottom. I simply used the cutter to finish the break.

The rest of the bracket is fine so I leave it. It's spot welded

top, bottom and in the front. With the chamber now open for

air flow, this now exactly like the crossover pipes put between

headers of a dual exhaust system on a car. The VR will now breath

much easier.

Carefully fold the flap back and work it as straight and as

close to original placement as possible. Use a drill bit to

create a termination hole at the end of each cut. Stainless will

crack from any sharp point even after it is welded.

Ready for welding. A good welder will suggest that after

welding the seam, a second layer of stainless be added over the

seam. This will pretty much assure that the weld will outlast

the bike.

It is important to check for other cracks. This is the chamber

mounting bracket on the top of the chamber. I did not see this

until I gave it a good cleaning. This is a common problem.

Get it welded as well.

Big seam welded to perfection by the students at Salt Lake

Community College's welding program. Good people to know.

Bracket crack all fixed.

Ready to go back in place. It's better to approach this from

the right side of the bike. Slip the chamber back on the rear

header down pipes and thread the bracket bolts on a few turns.

Install the front headers into the chamber front inlets. This is a

process of seating the pipes into the chamber and, at the same time,

making sure the front header seats align flush. Soon as you get it

dialed in, put the alan nuts on the front headers to hold them in place.

Tighten the chamber bracket nuts. Then tighten the clamps to the front

headers, then the header-to-head alan nuts. These are kind of a bear because

there is a frame cross brace just 'almost' out of the way. You need a

5/16" longer length alan wrench to get it started.

Install the mufflers. Replace the plastic parts and you're good to

go. One additional tweak it to drill out the 2 baffles in the mufflers.

You'll need a 1/2" drill bit welded to an 18" rod. Punch a few holes in

the baffle on each end of the muffler for more air flow.

Hope this helps if you need to do baffle surgery.