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Library Home Page > 1st Generation (1983 to 1993) > Drivetrain
Replacing the Clutch
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Replacing the clutch

How about replacing the clutch??.. I have an 83 XVZ with about 50 K on it and it runs like a dream, except the clutch will break loose from time to time when I really pour on the coal... is this a big job?? and I ve used Barnette Clutches in the past are they still avaliable? and are they recommended for this bike??  Grant Azbell

Answer

I had this very problem on my 1984 (which has the same clutch design as the 1983). The dealership said that the barnett and other aftermarket clutches would do the job fine, but they have a tendancy to have a sharper friction point.
After some discussion, I decided to go with the original equipment Yamaha clutch plates - the dealer recommended that I purchase the fiber plates but not the metal plates. This was done about 40,000 kilometers ago, and I expect that these plates will last as long as the original ones.
Clutch engagement is wonderful, exactly as on the bike when it was new. So it is more a matter of style. If you tend to be hard on your clutch, and it wears out in 30,000 kilometers, then go for the aftermarket, and tolerate the narrow engagement point. Otherwise, the original equipment clutch is fine.
Ps the job does not take long to do, and does not require that the engine be removed (it does not even require that the engine oil be drained). However, you will need a torque wrench to tighten the bolts correctly - 5.8foot-pounds. I can fax the three pages which describe the procedure if you forward me the area code and number, since there are some details that are better shown on the photos.    Scott MacMartin  


Add New Springs When Changing Clutch

I just wanted to thank you for the technical info I received when I wrote you about my clutch slipping and needed to be replaced. I used the Barnette clutch as I ve had good luck with it in years past and it was a perfect fit, except for one thing. When I ordered the clutch I should have ordered factory springs as well, the reason being that the original springs are over 10 years old and it would have been disappointing to have put the new friction plates in and them still slip due to aged and weakened springs, I cant remember how much they cost, it seems like around $30.00 us. It was an easy job and if Id ever done it before it would be an easy 30 min job. A new gasket was necessary as I tore the old one, then changed the oil as the clutch is a wet clutch and was instructed by a Yahama factory rep to never use oil additives as it might increase the risk of clutch slippage. The clutch works great and I cant tell any difference from the original as far as the friction point is concerned ... just wanted to say thanks again.... The tip for a quick start works great too.... thanks guys ....Grant Azbell


Slipping Clutch

Hello: My name is Jim Looney and I am having trouble with my 1983 Venture. The motorcycle has 20,000 miles on it and I think the clutch is slipping on it. When I am in 5th gear and crank down on the throttle at about 4500 rpm it breaks loose. Other then this the bike drives perfect. I have never got it to slip in the other gears just in high gear. Any ideas? You can contact me at 212@bellsouth.net. Thanks for any help that you might give.

Answer

It sure sounds like your clutch is slipping. A clutch is torque sensitive (rather than horsepower sensitive), so it will show failure in the highest gears first. You may have to be at 5500 at full throtte in fourth to make the clutch break away; this would of course verify our diagnosis.... Replacing the clutch is very straight forward (and I am assuming here that you change your own oil and filter - since this is an "equivalent difficulty" task). If you do not have a manual, then I can probably post the pages to the net that describe the process. Basically, you would buy the plates (the fibre plates - not the metal ones) and the gasket. You would then remove the clutch outer cover, remove the bolts that hold the clutch together (undo each bolt a little at a time). Pop out the old plates, pop in the new plates, and reassemble (use a torque wrench for this part). I will have to look up the torque values, since my manual appears to be at the office right now..Then put the clutch outer cover back on and go for a ride. .........Scott MacMartin Ottawa, Canada


Clutch Slip & Barnett Clutches

This is a re-post from an earlier message you may not have gotten from my experiences: See the last paragraph on the V-Max spring thingy.  And the V-max has never has springs like the 1200 Ventures, it's always been a plate like is in our 86-93 Ventures.
I used a set of Barnett fiber plates on my last clutch update where I had used the Yamaha OEM plates previously. I imagine Chuck that you probably made the same observation I did when I looked at the old plated "Hey these don't look that worn?". Anyway the Barnett plates are coated with Kevlar (bullet-proof clothing,etc) which is a real durable fiber, but is much thinner than the cork used on the OEM plates. I had the same reaction to the thickness of the plates, but after calling Barnett and then measuring the thickness, I realized that the metal plate is thicker to compensate for the thinner fiber.
Now, the main reason the clutch starts slipping sooner than expected is because of the tolerance limit in the diaphram clutch that they put in the V-Max in 85 and then in the Ventures in 86. Previous models used the spring set-up we have all known from previous bikes, which is a pain to adjust for even friction. The diaphram because of it's design requires no adjustment but gives up sooner, especially if you use some of the slicker sythetic oils.
Now this last time I used an old V-max trick to keep my clutch from EVER slipping again. And that was to stack 2 diaphram plates on top of each other when putting it back together. This made my clutch lever a bit stronger to pull in, but it wasn't that bad. Certainly not as bad as the race clutch I had in my 650 Triumph back in the 70s.   This is one strong and smooth set-up and I have had no negative experience with it yet. IMHO, I'm just not sure I would want to spend $110 to go back to clutch springs. Oh, and I think the stock fiber plates are about $125, which is another reason to go with Barnett.     Later,   Rick Butler

I had clutch slip problems too on my 86. This was back in 95 or so. I had the clutch rebuilt with (then easily available) Yamaha parts. It helped the problem but I still had some slippage, particularly in 2nd and 3rd gears (it seemed) on hard launches. At the time I replaced the clutch with the Yamaha stuff, my mechanic said I ought to use Barnett. I declined because I wanted be as OEM as possible. Dumb reason. After the rebuild still had problems, I took it back to my mechanic, he put in a Barnett, and I have been pulling by fat belly, my slim wife (ahem), and a trailer for about 3 years or more now with no problem at all.   Because of this, I heartily endorse Barnett.   Greg Quesnel

The Barnett clutch was $85.00 US and the spring conversion was $110.00 US.  My local bike shop owner was eager for the sale. And since I'm a regular customer, he gave me discount. BTW, the Yam spring is around $40.00US.
The original went 20k miles before giving trouble. Funny thing, but comparing the Barnett discs to the Yam. discs, the Barnetts appear thinner. However, they're made of Kevlar so that might not mean anything. The Barnetts engage smoothly and positively. The spring conversion uses 6 75lb.springs instead of the single star like OE. NO SLIPPAGE at all. Before , I could start in 2nd gear and slip the clutch to get going . Not now... Yep.
I think the Barnett is better than the OE. but only time will tell how long it lasts.   Good luck with yours.     BTW, Barnett # YPK37 discs, SR2 spring kit.........Chuck from Chuckey, TN


 

Last update: 11:17 PM Friday, January 6, 2006

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