I finally got my hands on a stator that had more output than the OEM and so it was time to install it and see what we had. Here is the new stator from Buckeye Performance. This upgrade increases the standard output from 30 to 45 amps.

Here is the OEM.

The first step was to drain the oil out of the engine. The next step was to remove the middle gear case cover and also the crankcase cover that has the stator attached to it. The middle gear case cover will hold a little oil inside of it so I removed this bolt first. Note the copper washer on the bolt. This must be reinstalled in the same position.

This will drain most of the oil that is remaining here. Remove the rest of the bolts and you will have this.

In order to remove the crankcase cover I removed the left footrest, removed the exhaust from the left front cylinder and removed the shift linkage. Here are the bolts for the footrest.

The footrest and the shift linkage can then just lay off to the side out of the way.

There are two nuts to remove on the engine and also one bolt to loosen in order to get the exhaust out of the way. I also removed the fake cooling fins to make it easier to remove the flange for the exhaust. Here is the engine side of things.

Here is the bolt on the bottom to loosen which will allow you to slide the exhaust forward and down out of the way.

Before removing the crankcase cover now is the time to get the two wire harnesses unplugged and routed off the bike so the crankcase cover can be fully removed. One set of wires is for the stator and the other set is for the pick up coil. These are both connected to the main harness in front of the battery box near the swingarm. I removed the sidecovers and also the coolant bottle to make getting at things easier. The directions for those can be found here.

http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/index.php?action=article&cat_id=002008&id=273

Here is the area where you will find the stator and the pick up coil connectors. You will need to loosen the black tie strap to free the wires.

The stator connector is shown.

With both sets of wires unplugged you will then have to get them free of this clamp.

With the wires free of the clamp they can then be pulled down through the bottom of the bike. There is one more clamp that holds the wires in between both the middle gear case cover and the crankcase cover.

With the wires free of the bike the crankcase cover can now be removed. It will come off a little hard with the pull of the magnet on the coil. Take note of how the starter gears are installed if they come apart.

Now it’s time to remove the OEM stator and install the higher output one. There are three screws holding the stator to the cover. These are usually in there pretty good. I have had the best luck heating them up with a micro torch to loosen the lock tite. Make sure you have a phillips bit that is in good shape also. I use a cordless drill to give them a good “pop” when loosening them.

Also needing to be removed are these two screws that hold a guard to cover the wires where they pass under the rotor. These screws are also locktited and are tough to remove without heating them.

Before removing the stator take a look at the orientation of the wires coming off of it so you can install the new one the same way.
With the stator out now is the time to clean off any remaining gasket material and get the inside cleaned up and ready for the new stator. Putting it back together is pretty much just the opposite of taking it apart. The stator screws get locktite and are torqued to 5.1 ft. lbs. For the rubber grommets where the wires pass through the cover I use Yamabond 4 along the edges. This is some pretty good stuff.

When reinstalling the bracket that covers the stator wires in the cover be sure to get the bottom lined up to the pin. Take your time getting this area correct as you don’t want the rotor to hit this once it’s installed. The screws for this bracket get locktite on install.

With the covers back on the engine and the pick up coil and stator wires run back to the oem spot it’s time to hook up the new stator wires. I pulled the battery out of the bike and ran the new stator wires as well as the oem stator wires with the connector up to the top side of the bike to make it easier to work on them. Be sure to run the new stator wires in the same route as the oem wires when you pull them up. Once they are soldered you won’t be happy if you have them looped around something you didn’t see. I originally moved the ignitor out of the way but I found it that it really wasn’t necessary. It’s only two nuts though if you would like more room.

Here I cut the connector off and installed some heat shrink tubing over the wires and then soldered them together (it doesn’t matter which wires you connect together). After being soldered I then put some heat to the shrink tubing to finish it off.

With the connections made I then used some cable ties to fasten the wires out of harms way and then reinstalled the battery.

After getting everything back together and filling with oil, start it up and make sure you don’t have any leaks. You will need to reset your radio settings and stations as well as your clock with the battery being disconnected.

I have been able to run close to 200 watts of extras and still have 13+ volts showing on my voltmeter. It sure is nice being able to have extra lights and heat at the same time!

A few torque specs when putting it back together.

Crankcase cover 7.2 ft. lbs
Middle gear case cover 7.2 ft. lbs.
Foot rest bolts 37ft. lbs.
Exhaust nuts 14 ft. lbs.
Exhaust bolt 22 ft. lbs
_________________
Peter Behm

Last update: 06:44 PM Tuesday, November 6, 2007

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